Buy Used car in America
Selling cars and buying a car - they are two conflicting interests.
The interest of the seller - to sell more cars. The interest of the buyer - buy a car cheaper. The purpose of selecting the car should be to reduce the probability to become a permanent customer service center.
How to find a middle ground, a combination of price and quality. In the absence of professional knowledge buying a car can become a "lottery". For that would not be a loser in this struggle of opposing interests, it is necessary to undertake a thorough diagnosis.
1. You can use the services of corporate service center, which would entail additional costs.
2. Can a self-diagnosis liked the car.
To perform self-diagnosis, we will publish detailed guidance.
Print this guide and use it directly on the spot when ostomtre car.
What should have during the inspection of the car before you buy a car.
1. preferably small flashlight;
2. small mirror;
3. magnet, wrapped in cloth, with his help, you can determine zashpatlevannye place (try to make it to the refrigerator - it should just stay);
4. candle-key;
5. compressometer;
6. screwdrivers (Phillips and flat);
7. small set of open end wrench (8,10,11,12);
8. few rags (to wipe hands, and sometimes you want something put under your knees);
9. if you can bring a helper.
It should not be underwritten to violate the order and try to expedite the process - is currently more expensive.
The verification starts with the documents.
Technical passport.
First look at the date of registration and year of manufacture. Year to verify identification number (VIN); In addition, the cars a year set of fasteners on the seat belts, glasses.
Then compare the number of the body under the hood and in the cabin (for example, under the front passenger seat) and engine number. Service book. If it persists, then it can be used to determine the regularity of service vehicles and the number of owners.
Body.
The car must be clean, otherwise the inspection body loses its meaning. Sit near the right headlights and carefully inspect the right side of the lorry, then spend the palm of his hand across the surface of the starboard side - there are any dents, defects of geometry and color.
Repeat this procedure at the left side, and then similarly inspect the hood and roof. Under such a perspective can be seen virtually all "enclosed" places, but what you see, you feel his hand. Do not forget to hold a similar view and from the trunk. Try to identify differences in shades and textures of paint on different parts (shagreen, the difference of grain for metallics).
All that is suspicious, check the magnet. If he falls off - so here putty. With the help of a magnet also inspect the rear pillars along their entire length. In the case of replacement of the rear wings (sides), there is always a putty.
Carefully inspect the joints - this is a good indicator of the last emergency vehicle. Normal joint has the same width along the entire length. Pay particular attention to the gap between: the front wings and windshield frame, said frame and hood, front bumper and front fenders, hood and headlights, direction indicators and front wings, front wings and doors, sidewalls and doors, front and rear doors and trunk lid and its opening. Note also the protrusion of hinged parts (doors, hood, trunk lid) on the mating surfaces.
Pay attention to the labels and inscriptions - this is usually "masked" defects. For the same purposes, and sometimes use different accessories - plastic thresholds, Lockers, moldings, spoilers, cutter, muzzles, linings, etc.
Check all the doors - they should close with one effort, and sound. Poor locked or unlocked door may be indicative of the displacement after a serious accident in the geometry of the body. Castles Japanese everlasting doors, and hinges to pull themselves, such as at the Golf IV, is not required for the duration of operation.
Be sure to visually inspect the bolts that attaches the wing to the body: are there signs of damage due to untwisting!
If you have any doubts about the correctness of the geometry of the body, then the accurate information will only check on the control points on a special stand.
You can limit and a simple test of the diagonals, which should put up the car and take a piece of twine. But it is necessary to consider the following - if you do not find a violation of the geometry, you get the "unsolvable" problem, which can be expressed, for example, the inability to adjust the angles of the wheels. Therefore, in case of doubt about the geometry of refuse from the purchase.
Lacquer finish.
Carefully inspect the quality from different angles and color. If the color of paint on the doors and wings a little different, we must seek a place of past accidents and to evaluate them in terms of influence on the engine or suspension. If the car for ten years, as well as new paint coating, it means that the car was repainted. Look at the roof. Do you have the feeling that it wavy? It can be said that the car was lying on the roof. If the suspicion is, pay attention to how the doors are closed and secured as interior plastic parts.
Thus, the fact is repainted (tint) of the car can be installed on the following grounds: there are traces of paint on rubber and plastic body parts, paint color under the rubber seals (they should be slightly unscrew) windows, doors, trunk lid is different, different color hood space, and wings. Open the hood. Power unit at unbeaten car should take a horizontal position, its inclination - a sure sign of body repair. Inspect the bolts fastening the front fenders.
They should not have traces of untwisting, and the adjustment slots in the wings - traces propilivaniya. Inspect the inside mounting location of headlamps. It also should not be a trace propilivaniya mounting holes to which resort in most cases, body repair cars. Carefully (using a flashlight) inspect places of attachment bumper and side members.
If they are knocked together the folds of metal and paint - car "pull out". After the accident, which seriously damaged the engine compartment, there is a very big risk that the machine will begin to crumble, as the nuts from the bucket. Do not flatter fresh bright paint and look for defects in color. The older a colorful cover, the better for you!
Inspect the radiator in order to determine traces of soldering. As a rule, soldering on aluminum radiators in any event not live long. Pay attention to the level of technical liquids.
Little secret. At Toyota under the hood - necessarily mat. Hood space dipped non-metallized paint even if the entire body is painted metallic.
At Mazda, and many others under the hood paint is the same as on the back, but considering that she was never polished, it should be matte.
Corrosion - each model has its own "pain" points. But, as a rule, begins this process at Lockers, sills and under the rubber seals. Please note the following areas: the joints of the roof with front and rear pillar, the windshield frame, the lower part of the trunk lid, the front edge of the bonnet, the front portion of the inner and outer rear wheel arches.
Quality control corrosion requires a hoist or ramps. When viewed from the bottom do not hesitate to "poke" him with a screwdriver - sometimes after this simple procedure, the need for further examination unnecessary. Inspect pivot points jack, and in the rear make sure no trace of welding and straightening of the rear spar and the following settings tow bar. Clearly, if there is (or was) hitch, the engine has considerable wear and tear, so sometimes the sellers removed before the tow hitch sales and mask (for example, using anti-corrosion treatment) a place to install it.
In the cabin.
Note the relationship to the salon owner: hardened seats, broken parts, broken-off heads of bolts and screws (especially on the dashboard), which could derail at loosening odometer (mileage), will notify the potential buyer a lot.
Very suspicious, if the steering wheel pad or sheath. This means that the mileage may try to hide such a manner uncomplicated way.
Inspect the steering wheel. Under his hands, he will naturally be more smooth - not a new car after purchase. But the difference "attrition" of the various parts of steering can be indirectly estimated mileage. With mileage of up to 100 thousand kilometers, plastic steering wheel in the field of capture arms (from outside) is practically obliterated, and the interior is practically new.
From 100 to 200 thousand surface of steering, as well as the gearshift lever is polished hands, but the relief pattern is still visible. With 300 thousand and above, while driving in the urban cycle is almost complete wiping steering and even the peeling of the metal base so often to hide the path used by leather straps or braids steering wheel.
Gearshift knob often change, and therefore you should pay attention to the fact that the steering wheel and the handle should be approximately the same degree of wear.
Also note the damage and breaks panels, upholstery, slipcovers, and dirt - this is not a problem because it is easily cleaned with modern detergents.
If the seat upholstery in texture and color does not match the upholstery of doors, perhaps, the seats are no longer home. Native were heavily sit and thrown. Very suspicious, if the seats - covers.
Check the upholstery attachment strength of the roof and doors.
Check all Seat (especially electric). Start with the driver - it experiences the maximum load. The seat should not be "sunken", should provide lateral support and back should not "hang out". Lighting devices and left paddles switch (easier to check with an assistant, so as not to get out repeatedly).
All additional options:
- Stove
- Air conditioning,
- Fan in all modes,
- Windows on all doors (especially electrical)
- Janitors and right shift paddles (Pay particular attention to the work of all washers)
- Heated seats and mirrors, elekticheskaya mirrors, etc.
Take the time to look under the mats salon. Under them should be dry, otherwise something is flowing (seal or oven).
Glass.
Particular care should be approached to inspect the windscreen and rear glass (the originality of their backgrounds checked for the manufacturer's trademark, often labeled nippon, sometimes with an indication of brand - Mazda, Toyota). If the body - hatchback, then there were cases when after a bad body repair after hitting the rear window crumbled after the temperature drop.
Inspect lights and lanterns. Original headlights even ten cars - both new deflectors did not turn yellow. This is achieved by sealing headlamps (almost always lights in cars glued), which did not allow penetration of moisture inside. Condensate inside the lamp lights indicates the crack, ie reflector will soon come to an end. Plastic turn signals at the "Japanese" is much more robust than the European cars - Ford, VW, Audi or Mercedes.
Suspension, brakes, chassis: steering wheel and the wheels should not be a significant backlash. Post front-wheel drive (you can even with the jack on the turn), lock the steering wheel with both hands and try to force moving the wheel in two directions: by taking a left and right side wheels, and then over the top and bottom. If there is a backlash, in the first case - it is the steering, while the second - the suspension elements (ball bearing, etc.).
Inspect the suspension joints and covers the steering, and front-on, in addition, hinge axes. Poszhimayte their fingers and see if they grease, and whether the leak violated. See if there are any leaks in the dampers, there are intact rubber buffers and anthers of shock absorbers. Serviceability check the damper is simple - to strongly press the top of the wing and let go. The car should rise, fall (already much lower) and once again rise. Everything! If swings more - shock absorber does not work. More precise information about the state of shock absorbers will only test for vibration, although some defects, you can identify a little later, when you check the car on the go
Carefully inspect the place of attachment of brake hoses and cylinders are inspected for leaks. Inspect anthers guides calipers and cylinders. The thickness of the linings of brake shoes are not so important - you replace the pads. But if the plates of different thickness, this indicates that podklinivayut guides slide or broken cylinder. In addition, the thickness of the brake discs should be not less than 11 mm. Well marked skirting the edges of the disk is formed after 100000 km. run.
Inspect drives for dents and cracks. Inspect the tires - if they are unevenly worn, it may be an indication of violation of the geometry of the suspension or bodywork.
Condition gearbox.
Note the clarity of gear, including the rear. Sometimes while driving you can hear the roar of a mechanical box, testifying about her wear.
With Automatic all a bit complicated. Checking the oil level in the box is carried out only on a hot engine and box (ie, after a short run - miles 10-20) with a probe. Modern automatic transmission is very reliable, and equipped with protection against damage. Create your own machine can only work with the mode P (Parking). They are afraid of machines only to switch modes, fixed relative to each other click of the lever (P, R, N, D, but D, S, L, which in some designs can even switch during movement). Another requirement - quality gear oil, which must be changed every 40-50 thousand miles (not more!), And always with the filter.
When operating the need to adhere to the rules: before switching modes required to squeeze the brake to shift MUST occurred in the absence of rolling machines. Verify the configuration of idling. To do this, stand in front of a small rise, turn on the motion and release the brake pedal. The machine should at least remain in place, or start off the hill. If you rolled back, the idle speed may be wrong, it is necessary to raise the speed. Check in motion. Several times the acceleration from 0 to 60-80 km / h, in different ways by clicking on the gas pedal. In accordance with the push, automatic transmission itself must otschelkat steadily and without strong tremors. In sharp pressing the pedal, the engine must accelerate to much higher speed. Otherwise, there is reason to doubt the status of the automatic gearbox. Very good, if a car with automatic transmission is equipped with Turnbuckle. This could mean her tight operation with a trailer in heavy modes.
Engine shut off:
The engine must be clean and dry. But it is not freshly washed! Washing with a steam generator is able to give clean. Therefore, the more closely inspect the engine for oil leakage. Inspect the hoses - they should not be cracked. The engine must operate without noticeable vibration. Idle speed after heating the engine must comply 600-800 rpm. On machines since 1992, with automatic transmission and automatic control of idling speed may correspond to 500-600 turnovers, and it is perfectly normal. Thus no effleurage car should not be observed. Assess the oil - the presence of small metal particles shows the wear liners crankshaft, and bubbles with water (tosol) indicate burned head gasket. If the oil fresh and very dense, it's possible that it filled for the "mask" serious malfunctions (low compression and various kinds of wear). Open the cap for the Gulf oil and inspect it, scratch the inner surface of the lid with a screwdriver. The presence of rust indicates that at the time the engine was overheated. Inside the neck should not be a black paste-like plaque. The presence of the raid said violations in the engine lubrication: or to pour oil is not a suitable type, or is it a long time has not changed, or engine overheating. Inspect with a flashlight inside filler and valve train components. In a working engine all that you see inside, should be golden brown. Carefully inspect for leaks cooling system. Check to see if hoses elasticity. Open the expansion tank. The presence of rust in the tank indicates that the engine in its time was overheated, and the presence of oil in antifreeze - the hole in "laying" heads of damage or block cooling "jacket".
Switch on ignition.
Carefully read the dashboard, and then test all the indicators. On modern cars are often on the panel there are indicators of different diagnostic systems, and sellers sometimes either do not know, or deliberately misleading customers about the appointment of any illuminated "lights". But it may be a signal that is defective lambda probe, high-pressure gasoline pump or some other expensive "thing". Include only the ignition without starting the engine.
At the same time on the dashboard lights up many red lights and must shine light emergency oil pressure (usually comes on when reduced oil pressure below 0.3 kg / cm), light the lack of battery charging, the light and hand brake light candles include heating circuit ( for diesel engines).
The latter must be extinguished after 1-6 sec., Depending on the temperature of the engine, and after another 3 seconds. hear a slight click of the relay under the hood - it dropped the voltage glow of candles. Start the engine. All the red lights should be extinguished immediately (except for parking brake indicator, by the way, check it - and then release Hold and see how light reacts to your actions). Wait 10-15 seconds, stop the engine and immediately turn on the ignition (not start). If the engine is in normal condition, the emergency lamp oil pressure should not burn, as in the oil system maintains high oil pressure, and it is slowly declining due to oil leakage through the gaps of crankshaft bearings. The smaller these gaps, ie less engine wear, the later the emergency oil pressure light will light up again. A good time to reduce the engine oil pressure is up to 5 seconds. If the bulb lit up almost immediately, the engine is worn.
Running engine.
Start the engine. While he was not warmed, open the cork expansion tank. If bubbles rise - a hole in cylinder head gasket. Carefully open maslozalivnuyu neck. If much of it the gases, then there are defects or broken piston rings, crankcase ventilation. Inspect the running engine for leaks of oil or antifreeze.
Listen to the engine. There should be "metal" sound. Engine speed should not "float". On a hot engine, an aide to stop abruptly and press the gas pedal, and themselves at this time substitute the hand to the exhaust pipe. The large number of oily stains demonstrated, at least, significant wear of piston rings.
Check the exhaust system. This idling just plug the exhaust pipe with a rag - the engine should die out. Check the opacity of exhaust gases. Idle smoke from the exhaust pipe is almost not visible. Pressing the gas pedal to the smoke becomes visible, but it should be a pale bluish color. Black smoke indicates failure of the fuel system, blue - flow of oil into the combustion chambers of cylinders, and thick white smoke - flow into the combustion chamber antifreeze or water.
In the frosty or wet weather the color of smoke is not enough to correct a malfunction of the engine. If the machine with a catalyst, something about his integrity indicates an odor, some of it for some reason compared to the smell of almonds. On a hot engine, remove all plugs and check compression. Correct value learn from the literature (usually somewhere around 10 MPa - for gasoline engines and is closer to 20 - for diesel engines). Important - the difference between cylinders should not exceed 1 MPa. Otherwise, get ready for refurbishment of the engine. Check engine temperature sensor readings. Rate it rubber-stamped the work of the stove.
In motion.
Let's go. Go check as shifting transmission - should be clearly and easily. If the dropping of gas could be heard whining sound - the wear of gears. Grinding of switching - wear synchronizers. Whining sound - the wear of the differential or gearbox. Knocking load changes - wear crosses propeller shaft. Rate clutch. It must operate efficiently from low obrotov engine. In addition, depressed the clutch should not be heard Clutch release bearing. Try to pass on direct smooth portion, releasing the steering wheel. If the machine leads to the side, thus violating the suspension geometry or body.
If the car is not misleading, and the steering is a little turn, then on one tooth provernulas steering wheel on the rack. This happens after a collision at high speed on the obstacle (curb, etc.). From the suspension should not be noises and chatter. Their presence indicates the wear of rubber bushings stabilizers, suspension joints or sleeves of shock absorbers. Faulty shock absorbers leads to nod when braking, settling back when overclocked. The car holds the road hesitantly, strong heels and leaves the path in turn. Rate vibration steering. So you can "hear" bent wheels or other defects running.
Crystal in turns shows the wear of constant velocity joints. Brake sharply on dry pavement, go and see the traces of inhibition. They should be symmetrical, and during braking the car should not sidetrack. During emergency braking is not an ordinary car is controllable, that is, when you turn the steering direction of its motion does not change. Cars equipped with anti-lock brake systems, ABS, emergency braking should not squeal of rubber and should be managed by rotating the steering wheel. With a smooth brake application on the pedal should not feel aftershocks (for cars without ABS), and in the salon should not hear the noise of brake pads, grinding and strikes. Put the car down the slope and evaluate the effectiveness of "parking brake".
For automatic transmission: turn it into a position "D" and release the parking brake. The car must be in place. Just push on the pedal - it should be touched. Try moving to lift the front and reverse. The motion should start easily, immediately after pressing the gas pedal. If the pick-up on the lift is required to untwist the engine to 1500 rpm or more, the machine is worn out and soon the car on the lift did not go. The car also should not be rolled forward during the descent at position handles automatic "R". Stop on level ground, switch position "D", with one foot push on the brake, and the other sharply drown the gas pedal. If the engine stall immediately, it can be argued that the machine in good condition. If the engine is not immediately stalled, in no case may wait until he does - there and then reset the gas and turn on the "N" or "P", since such tests is severely worn all the already worn in used auto parts automatic mechanism . Try the gas pedal. There should be no "failure".
Engine power easier to evaluate for two indicators - the acceleration time to 100 km / h and maximum speed (if you have, where to overclock). These data must be tentatively found in the directory (for verified models, naturally).
After the purchase, for science, is recommended to replace oil in the engine, transmission, brake fluid, all the belts (and Timing belt - always with rollers, whose share roughly corresponds to the resource-belt). Only in this case about operational problems with the car you can forget.
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